The highest mountain in Russia is Mount Elbrus which stands at 18,510 feet (5,642 metres) at its tallest point. Not only is Elbrus the tallest mountain in Russia, it’s also the highest in the whole of Europe and this impressive natural phenomenon consists of two peaks – East and West – which have been providing challenges to climbers for over two hundred years. Elbrus also forms part of the fabled seven summits, the assembled highest peaks of the continents across the globe.
Born from Myths and Legends
As with most mountains across the world, Elbrus is shrouded in myth and legend: In ancient times it was known as Strobilus and Greek Mythology lists it as the place where Prometheus was chained by Zeus, where a giant eagle ate his liver every day, only for it to grow back so that the pain could be endured all over again.
Elbrus is located in the Caucasus and it is classed as an inactive volcano. No volcanic activity has been officially recorded although it is widely believed that the last eruption took place around 50 AD. More recent evidence of lava flow has been found near the peaks but it is generally acknowledged that Elbrus is no longer active and that volcanism isn’t an issue for the many climbers that attempt its dual summits.
The First Ascent
After a catalogue of failed attempts, the race to become the first to scale Elbrus hotted up in the early part of the 19th century, and Khillar Khachirov, a guide for a Russian Scientific Expedition is widely acknowledged as the man to first conquer the lower east summit in 1829.
The first ascent of the higher west summit however is the subject of conflicting information and some claim that the famous English explorer and mountaineer, Douglas William Freshfield was the first to mount a successful climb in 1868. While Freshfield had some notable successes in the region, his attempt on Elbrus’ west peak was unsuccessful although he did become the first man outside of Russia to ascend the east summit.
The much respected Alpineascents.com puts the record straight by listing the British Grove expedition as the first successful ascent of the highest point. Amongst the party was Akia Sottaev who, at the incredible age of 86, also became the first man to conquer both peaks.
Throughout the years of the Soviet Union, ascents of Elbrus became more commonplace. In 1956, it was climbed simultaneously by an incredible 400 Soviet climbers as part of celebrations to mark the 40th anniversary of the incorporation of Kabardino-Balkaria.
The Modern Era
In 1976, a cable car system was completed which took climbers up to 12,500 feet. From there, the ascent to the west summit is relatively straightforward and crevasse free and these days, as many as 100 people a day can be found tackling the mountain by this route. In summer months, the mountain is conquered on a regular basis but in the extremes of winter, only the most experienced of mountaineers can mount a successful challenge. Elbrus still represents a great danger and as many as 30 climbers are killed on the slopes every year.
While successful climbs are considerably less rare these days, as part of the seven summits Elbrus still represents a serious challenge and in May 2011 it hit the news once again when 16 year old British mountaineer George Atkinson finished his ascent of Mount Everest and became the youngest climber ever to successfully scale the seven peaks.
A mountain that has its roots in mythology is kept at the forefront of climbing by intrepid explorers such as George Atkinson and its beautiful and imposing presence ensures that Mount Elbrus will stay in the memory of those who are privileged enough just to see it.
